On Uganda: An Initial Taste

After a huge logistical push by many wonderful friends and much anticipation, I traveled from JFK to Johannesburg and then from “Jo-Berg” to Entebbe. During my five hour layover in South Africa, I sent my first email and made my first phone call from the African continent. Upon discovering why multiple emails from welcoming Ugandan natives included the phrase "pearl of Africa", I had to immediately email Jon. According to my guidebook (which was generously given to me by the StreetWise Leadership Council), it is the final line of the country’s national anthem! My first phone call from Africa (via Skype) was to Dari. Though we are living in the same time zone for the first time in eleven years, Dari was, as she’s always been, an incredible source of encouragement and support. I could not have chosen a better grounding force with whom to start this adventure.

For those who have never flown into the Entebbe airport, the runway picks up no farther than 50 feet from the shore of Lake Victoria. Flying over the vast lake right at sunset provided a spectacular view of the water, and colored my first view of Ugandan land in beautiful dusk shadows.

To my great relief, I found my luggage waiting for me safe and sound on the far side of customs. (I will carefully omit the number of suitcases I brought so as not to evoke criticism on this particular point; let us say, however, that much of what I brought to Uganda will remain in Uganda upon my departure.)

I was met at the airport by Paul, who works as a full-time driver for CHAI (Clinton HIV/AIDs Initiative) and my new boss, Ian. Unfortunately, I couldn’t see much on the road from Entebbe to Kampala, as dusk had turned to evening and street lighting was minimal at best. We drove through a few relatively small trading posts and one or two sizeable towns before I could make out the lights and skyline of downtown Kampala.

Entitled Forrest Cottages, my hotel is cutely reminiscent of Africa meets Swiss Family Robinson. Each room is a small cottage, with a kitchenette, living room, TV, etc. on the upstairs floor and then a winding stair case leading down to a bedroom, complete with desk, netted bed, closest and private bathroom. Though vaguely tacky, the entire set up is adorable and probably far more interesting/unique than the Kampala Sheraton or another comparable chain. After showering, changing, and a brief dinner with Ian, and his fiancée, Laura, I carefully navigated the netting and promptly went to sleep.

Despite putting the chain latch on my front door, I woke to the friendly surprise of the cleaning lady as she made her way down the winding stairs into the bedroom. Without explaining how she entered the cottage, she apologized for disturbing me, said she didn’t realize anyone was there (I guess the chain lock was not much of a signal or deterrent!) and promptly asked if she could take my laundry for cleaning. After cleaning the upstairs of the cabin, she and a colleague kindly left the chain undone, leaving me no false pretenses as to the security it provided!

Once up and mobilized, I went to the CHAI Uganda office. If any part of me was fearful that the office might closely resemble my CRA office in DC, but simply be thousands of miles away from friends and family, that part of me can certainly rest assured. The CHAI office is located in a beautiful large house in a guarded compound. We operate on the second floor, which simply has a number of desks lining the walls. Though the quarters are relatively tight, there are massive windows, a beautiful balcony where one can take personal calls, and a large conference room (also with a balcony) where one can take work-related calls without disturbing those around them. Currently, I am one of nine people at CHAI Uganda; however, three people are leaving before the end of the month, bringing the count to six, including one volunteer.

After meeting my new team, I grabbed lunch with Evan, Matt, and V.J. (a volunteer whose first day at CHAI is also Monday) at the food court of a large, European style mall. I should mention that I opted for the Cuban section of food court, and was served a meal that, save for the rice with peppers and corn, did not in the least bit resemble what I (by my American standard) consider to be Cuban food. In addition to the rice, there was fish with a mushroom cream sauce (Italian?), French fries (American?) and a small salad of carrots and cabbage (cole-slaw family?). Thus, Cuban cuisine in Uganda may still be developing.

After lunch, I set off with Laura and Paul to look at a few potential apartments. The two of them had kindly already scouted out a number of places for me to see, and after looking at three or four options, I chose the first one we looked at! It’s an adorable ground level, two bedroom apartment located in a compound with a large house directly next to it. It has a separate entrance from the adjoining house, a beautiful garden, and is perfect for one or two people. I’ll take pictures once I move in (on Sunday!) and be sure to post them. I’ll close this entry by simply saying that anyone reading this is more than welcome to visit! I can promise you your own room, private bathroom, and a safe, clean little abode…. Anyone?